Dining

By Wendy Johnson

In many ways Braddon lives a life of its own: A bit funky, a bit eccentric and a bit down to earth.
That’s what Lurdes Martins, the owner of Kitschen (in Londsdale Street), was thinking when she moved away from a strictly Italian restaurant to one that celebrates the style of food her new chef specialises in. And it was what she was thinking when the restaurant was branded with a quirky way of spelling that space where the chefs hang out.
The new chef at Kitschen, Michael Bradford, describes his food as a “combination of European and Asian, incorporating a lot of fresh seafood and working with the best of what’s in season”. Michael is formerly from the Fig Café, which Canberra food lovers will remember with a great deal of affection, and the Tryst in Manuka (now operating under another name).
Michael talks passionately about the farmed salmon he sources from Tasmania, the lamb rump and eye fillet from North Queensland and the fresh, local, black mussels and oysters from the south coast.
The menu offers a lovely range of food, prepared simply. The marinades, sauces and reductions are all prepared in-house in the open-concept kitchen, where there’s always a stockpot on the go, whether it be chicken, beef or vegetable.
We were in for a quick bite on a Saturday and, even though the restaurant has changed focus, there are still some quality Italian dishes on the menu. It was a chilly day, so I opted for the vegetarian risotto, which was a treat. The roasted pumpkin was not overcooked, the English spinach a lovely touch of green, the fetta a nice “bite” and the pine nuts wonderfully crunchy. And the risotto was cooked as it should be ($15.90).
My friend ordered the hearty penne pasta ($16.50), loving every mouthful of the Chorizo sausage, the tang of the kalamata olives and the fresh chilli. It was served with a traditional Napolitana sauce, a specialty of the chef.
Michael understands he is there to make customers happy, not only with the quality of his food, but with their preferences. He says variations on the menu are welcome (at least where practical) and so if you want your risotto without onion, that’s okay (Kitschen makes it from scratch, anyway) or if you have a special dietary need the restaurant is happy to oblige.
I feel comfortable and relaxed at Kitschen (where Da Cellini used to be). The interior design is warm and the floor-to-ceiling windows allow for great people-watching. The service was good and it’s certainly worth a visit.