By Wendy Johnson
IT’S one of the oldest, most diverse cuisines in the world and is characterised by healthy, full-flavoured dishes made with wonderful ingredients. I’m talking authentic Portuguese fare and, if you’ve never exposed your taste buds to this unique style of cooking, you must do so. A good place to start is Vasco’s Portuguese Charcoal Grill in Kingston.
The timing is right to visit Vasco’s. Although it’s been part of the Kingston dining scene for some years, it has been taken over by Duncan Bustard, whose experience in hospitality includes stints as manager at the Ottoman, and employment at Rock Salt and Carlos.
It’s the first time Duncan has owned a restaurant, and it’s reassuring to see he’s off on the right foot. He continues to pay respect to the many dishes that have become firm favorites of regular diners, all of which continue to be cooked by the same Portuguese chef. However, over time Duncan will introduce new ideas, including refining the wine list.
We grazed a fair bit and started with the traditional Ameijoas – fresh, open clams served in superb olive oil, garlic, coriander and white wine. The dish typifies Portuguese cooking and Vasco’s menu – fresh, healthy food, made with quality products.
And that takes me to one of the restaurant’s signature dishes, made with thinly cut beef, pan seared with mushrooms in a creamy port wine and mustard sauce accompanied by fluffy rice.
Perhaps the most famous of dishes is the Portuguese barbecue chicken, another house specialty. You can enjoy the moist, tender chicken with piri-piri sauce (chilli) or lemon and it comes with rice and a mild garlic sauce. The chicken is butterflyed and marinated overnight, and then cooked in a special rotisserie, removing most of the fat. The sardines aguardente is another “must try”. The whole, large, oily fish is made with aguardente, also known as Portuguese firewater or burning water because of its strong alcohol content.
Vasco’s staff are highly knowledgeable on the food, and can explain every dish. They’re also friendly, efficient and truly want you to sit back and enjoy your time with them.

Vasco’s Portuguese Charcoal Grill , 46 Giles Street, Kingston, on 6232 7034. Open Tuesday-Friday for lunch and dinner seven nights (from 5.30).