WATERS Edge is a stunning place to dine and it’s excellent news for Canberra that multiple award-winning James Musillon has bought the restaurant.
A superbly talented chef, James has already begun transforming Waters Edge, on the shores of Lake Burley Griffin, into a highly successful establishment that will soon be winning its own set of prestigious awards.
His eye for design and detail transforms food on a plate into a work of art, but his presentation isn’t disconcerting (you know what I mean, food served in tall stacks that tumble into a mess the moment your knife and fork get near them). The menu is not extensive, but it was still challenging for us to make a final selection on what to eat.
We started with the caramelised rabbit and game terrine with foi gras parfait crosinni, black sherry and prune reduction ($19). The combination of tastes was exquisite and the execution superb. Ditto for the Yamba prawn, scampi and ginger dumpling, with in-house salmon gravlax ($21).
We relaxed and enjoyed our wine, selected by the expert French-trained sommelier Abel Bariller who works at Waters Edge. The wine list is exciting and the quality offerings by the glass are less expensive than some not-so-decent local cafés.
Then it was on to the roast lamb cutlet and braised shoulder with Jerusalem artichoke puree, walnuts and lamb jus ($32) and line-caught, blue-eye cod fillet with sweetcorn mousse and double-smoked bacon jus ($32). Sensational on all counts.
James’s sense of flair goes well beyond what diners eat. As with fine-dining Courgette (which has just had a new face lift) and Aubergine (now sold and no longer fine dining) James wants his restaurants to feel warm, comfortable and “like home”. Lush curtains are now hung along the top part of the expansive windows, columns have been painted and soon there will be new carpet and comfy chairs. Frosted glass will also make an appearance half way up the windows, for a bit of privacy and also to enhance the shape of the view. And the new wedding reception room will make a picture-perfect place to tie the knot once it opens.
When I say Waters Edge will soon be heading for the awards arena I mean it. James’s establishments consistently wear hats from “The Sydney Morning Herald” – three years running for Aubergine and five years running for Courgette, which has also won Restaurant of the Year in last year’s round of ACT awards.

Waters Edge is a must for Canberrans who love superb food, quality service and lovely views. Lunch by the lake is equally exciting – one course ($30), two courses $45 and three courses $55.
Open seven days for dinner and Wednesday-Sunday for lunch. Commonwealth Place, Parkes, call 6273 5066.